The best waterproof cycling jackets 2024: Thoroughly tested to keep you dry in the harshest conditions

The world of waterproof tech is in flux thanks to the ban on PFAS, also known as ‘forever chemicals’. For now there are still some very good pre-ban options for riding still out there on the market, but you want to avoid PFAS entirely I’ve added a brand guide at the bottom of my guide to PFAS to help you navigate as you like. 

For road riding the best option is the Rapha Pro Team Gore-Tex Rain Jacket. It uses the old Gore-Tex membrane, and is what I reach for when it’s really hammering it down when I want to hammer it on tarmac. For off-road and adventure riding the incredible Albion Zoa Rain Shell is the place to go. It’s so good it went in my Gear of the Year last year, and I wear mine all the time. 

If you’re after a jacket for commuting then I think the POC Motion is a great buy, but I’ve also put together a separate guide to the best commuter cycling jackets with a load of other options, and there’s our excellent guide to the best winter cycling jackets for those of you who just want to stay warm. 

Waterproof jackets can be a confusing marketplace to navigate, what with waterproof and breathability figures, names of membranes etc. I’ve included an FAQ section at the bottom to help demystify things a little too. 

Quick list

In detail: Best waterproof cycling jackets available today

Best waterproof cycling jacket for road

The Rapha Pro Team Gore-Tex jacket is tied, in my mind at least, with the Albion All-Road in terms of performance, but they fill slightly different niches. The Pro-Team is definitely a jacket for road riding, so is a touch less versatile. That being said, if you only ride the road, this is about as good as it gets in the post-Shakedry landscape. 

I’ve tried my absolute best to find the limit of this jacket’s capability and have yet to reach it. Hours in driving rain on laps of Bristol’s steepest hills left me almost totally dry, save for a bit of wicking at the cuffs and hem, but I’m yet to wear a jacket that this doesn’t happen with. 

The fit is close; racy, but not constricting. Not quite so extreme as the Assos option, but not far off. You’d struggle to fit a down jacket underneath, but a fleecy mid-layer would stay lofted. The tail is far more dropped than the Albion, with a higher cut front too, to avoid any bunching when in an aero position.

The cuffs, so often a bugbear of mine on other jackets, are excellent despite only being elasticated. You’d struggle to fit a thick glove inside them, but something thinner and more attuned to hard riding would be fine. The neck on the other hand is a little roomy, and I’d like to see it a bit tighter with some elastic to really seal the elements out.

Gore-Tex is going to keep you dry, that’s the bottom line really. In a torrential downpour, you’ll be absolutely fine. I only managed to find the limit of breathability on protracted climbs on humid days in between showers, but with the bottom and top of the zip opened up it’s definitely not difficult to dump a lot of heat very quickly. 

Given the upcoming PFAS ban this jacket has a limited time left and will likely be replaced it’s something to buy now while you still can. 

If you want to know why I rate it so highly then I’ve a full Rapha Pro Team Gore-Tex Jacket review up on site too with all the details. 

Best waterproof cycling jacket for gravel

The Albion Zoa Rainshell is the jacket in this list that most closely resembles a general-use, high-performance outdoors waterproof jacket. It’s cut for cycling, but not nearly as much as other options. The dropped tail is subtle, but the hood is equal-best for wearing with a helmet, on a par with the Rapha Trail jacket. In the case of the Albion though, it has a mouldable peak, more akin to what you’d find on a jacket designed for climbing mountains. 

The Pertex Shield Air three-layer waterproof fabric is plenty breathable enough for high-output riding, and for those times when you do get too hot the double zip works wonders as do the vent pockets if they’re empty. The cut is also a little roomier, allowing some more winter layers underneath if you want to venture out in very cold conditions – I’ve taken it out down to about -15 degrees Celsius, but at this point, it’s more of a test for the mid layers than the shell. 

I see the Zoa rain jacket as ideal for proper backcountry expedition gravel riding, or MTB if that’s your poison. It’s definitely durable enough (I’ve run one for a year and besides a few oil stains it’s held up very well), but the cut lends itself more to a relaxed position, along with the front pockets for storage. My main criticism of the Zoa comes from the cuffs, which have a novel design that doesn’t work as well as a standard Velcro option. 

The double zip on the pockets has sensibly been discontinued in favour of a normal zip in recent seasons, which avoids any risk of accidentally thinking you’ve done them up when you have just opened them from the bottom. They’re only good for venting if they’re empty, as if you leave them open when they’re full you’ll lose all your stuff on the trail. I opted for a size up from my usual jersey in this case, because for deep winter use, I like to use this and thicker layers beneath, but you can probably get away with your actual jersey size if you want a closer cut.

The Albion Zoa Rain Shell certainly did well in testing. Go read the full review if you’re curious.

It’s worth noting that the Zoa is often out of stock, and only available in the UK. I do rate it as the best, but if you’re stateside or you need one right now and it’s not available then go for the Rapha Explore Gore-Tex instead. 

Best budget waterproof cycling jacket for road

The fabric used in the Core rain jacket is pretty similar to that used in the Rapha Commuter jacket. It’s no where near as thin as a Maap Atmos, but on the flip side, it did feel more protective in sustained or heavier weather. Think of it as a budget waterproof cycling jacket for colder conditions; better in the wet and cold, but not so good when the temperature rises, and not as ideal as a secondary-use windbreaker. 

The jacket itself is visually very pleasing. While the Gore-Tex option is in my view the very top-end of road performance in this sector, I find it hard to resist adding some colour to my outfit and the yellow is cheering on miserable days, though the colour palette is now slightly more muted. In order to counteract the lower breathability of the fabric (sadly Rapha doesn’t offer up figures), there are armpit perforations much like the POC Motion, which certainly help. 

The Rapha Core Rain Jacket II does ape a lot of its design from the old Shakedry model, but the cut is roomier to allow for layers, and it’s longer at the front, so better if you don’t have a hyper-aggressive position on the bike. As per the rest of Rapha jackets, I find you need to go up a size from your usual jersey. The hem is a drawstring which is no bad thing if you want to cinch, and while the offset zip certainly adds an aesthetic point of interest I don’t think it has any real performance benefit; if it did it would also feature on the Shakedry models. 

I have a full review of the Rapha Core Rain Jacket II on-site if you want to know all the details. 

Best budget waterproof cycling jacket for gravel

The GV500 is to my mind the best budget option for gravel riding and can mix it with the more expensive options too. It doesn’t perform quite as well as truly high end options like the Albion Zoa and the soon to be discontinued Rapha Explore Gore-Tex, but for shorter, non-extended sessions in horrible weather it’s pretty great.

The fabric is similar to that of the Pro SL road jacket from the brand but moderately less breathable. While this may sound like a bad thing if you’re really giving it beans (which it is), for those times when you’re standing around looking at the view, or trying to plug a tubeless tyre in bad weather it keeps you a little more protected from the elements. 

The hood is big enough to accommodate a helmet without being restrictive, and the rubberised shoulders for keeping a backpack in place are a well-thought-out touch. The cuffs, like the road jacket, are well designed with a longer flap on the back of the hand to offer additional coverage. 

The main reason I recommend this over other budget options is that it feels more durable and has slightly better specs. Gravel riding is harder on equipment, and while I haven’t had the chance to see which lasts longer in real-time, my money is on the Endura. Aesthetically I’d rather the zip storm flap was on the inside, but that’s a pretty minor detail. 

My full review of the Endura GV500 Jacket after countless hours in the rain should cover any questions you have. 

Most packable waterproof cycling jacket

The Maap Atmos is proof that you can have really decent wet weather protection in a superlight, ultra-packable package. The Pertex Shield membrane is the same as you get in something like the Albion Zoa, so it absolutely keeps water out, but the face and liner fabrics are so thin and the features so pared back that it’s a totally different option.

The POC Supreme kind of did the same thing, but the fit was all wrong and it was far too expensive. Here though you get a jacket you can stuff into a pocket with room to spare and have it still keep some pretty heavy rain out all in one. 

The fit is racy, very much like the Rapha Pro Team, but everything is a bit lower profile. The zip, cuffs, and hem are all just a bit more slimline, and the cuffs and hem especially use a thinner elastic band. The fit is still good, but the cuffs especially don’t grab quite like the Rapha ones too. 

This is the jacket that spent many hours stuffed away in a bar bag on changeable condition days, hoping to never be used. If you ride plenty in spring and fall and tend to stay inside when it’s really grim it’s absolutely as much jacket as you’d ever need for a heavy April shower. I threw it on during summer thunderstorms and it was perfectly fine, but for really protracted, cold downpours it does feel a little less protective.

Part of this comes from its lightness. Skin doesn’t actually have any ‘wet’ detection capability, only temperature and pressure. Modern DWR treatments are more easily overwhelmed, especially on leading edges like your forearms, so you can get to a point where you have this wet, cold material resting directly on your skin and it feels wet even though it isn’t actually letting water through. Feeling wet and being wet amount to the same thing in my eyes, and while this is totally fine when it’s not that cold, for deep winter use I’d go for something with a bit more rigidity to it. 

It does come in a really lovely range of colours. I know this is purely an aesthetic point but jackets don’t have to be either black, dark green, or high-vis yellow, and having a wide choice of muted tones might actually be the difference between getting out and enjoying a damp ride and just sitting on the turbo, or the sofa. 

More than any other jacket that I’ve tested the Atmos works really well as a wind jacket too. There are rides where the rain hasn’t been forecast, but I’ve taken it out anyway as an extra layer all the same, and been glad of it when the heavens do randomly open.

For all the ins and outs my Maap Atmos jacket review goes into everything in a lot more detail to help you decide on whether to pull the pin. 

Best waterproof cycling jacket for commuting

Commuting is especially hard on gear, and if you’re regularly riding to and from work in bad weather you’ll likely want a bit more protection than the Rapha Commuter Jacket can offer before long. The POC Motion sits as something of a crossover between a trail jacket and a commuter, which is definitely a good thing as given its price it’ll save you having to buy two options. 

Why I really like the Motion is that instead of making a cycling jacket that’s been adapted for use off the bike, it instead feels like a normal day to day jacket that’s been adapted for use on the bike. 

The side pockets are good for storing office essentials (keys, pass, chocolate), or if you wear a backpack you can leave them empty and put small items in the chest pocket. One well-designed touch is that the internal zip storm flap is stitched back on itself to prevent snagging. On the flip side though the zip itself isn’t a plasticised waterproof model, which feels like an oversight. 

If you want something to ride to work in every day and use in the woods at the weekend you’ll have a hard time finding an option that does both as well as the POC Motion. Plus, especially in the lovely Dioptase petrol blue colour, it’s another looker that’s perfectly fine on the office floor. 

If you are only really looking for a jacket for commuting then I urge you to have a look at my separate guide to the best commuter cycling jackets; there are plenty more really good options on the market.

Best waterproof cycling jacket for racing

The relatively new Gabba R takes a lot of what was good about the old Gabbas of old, that being a proper aero cut, excellent breathability, and a focus on heat management rather than absolute water repellency, and adds a proper ‘waterproof’ membrane into the mix. The quotes are doing an amount of lifting here, and while it’s certainly more waterproof than a softshell jacket it’s about half as waterproof as it needs to be to be classed as properly waterproof.

All that aside, for its intended purpose as a race jacket for heavy rain it is marvellous. The outer fabric is similar in look to the old Shakedry, but does have a DWR treatment and can get wetted out with enough effort. In heavy rain, if you are riding full gas, there’s nothing that can touch it for breathability. I used it in temperatures up to 16ºC in the sun without being horribly uncomfortable. 

Rain will eventually get in, but if you’re riding hard you’re going to be sweating and you’ll get a bit damp whatever happens I’m afraid. Here though you’ll stay a comfortable temperature, and be far, far more aero. Castelli claims the Gabba R is more aero than its San Remo skinsuit, and from the cut, I can believe it. 

There’s no room for layering underneath beyond a base layer and a thin jersey, so you have to get your strategy right. The seams aren’t taped either to allow for a more form-fitting fit, and on any other jacket I’d view that as a horrible oversight but here I’m OK with it. 

The close fit and lack of layering room can mean it’s very easy to get cold if you stop riding hard. With the jacket essentially acting as a second skin you get far more evaporative cooling, and it’s definitely colder than the normal Gabba in this regard.

The aesthetics are going to make or break it for a lot of people too. I don’t mind it, but as I’ve said in some other reviews I am slightly numbed to looking a bit daft. It is fast and performs excellently, so if you can put the looks aside you may be onto a winner. 

It is available in both a long and a short sleeve option, and I think if you’re seriously considering buying one then you should get the short sleeve and add in a pair of Nano Flex arm warmers. it’ll be a far more versatile setup and see you better placed for Fall and spring than the long sleeve version. 

My Castelli Gabba R review goes into all of these points in more detail if you’re considering taking the plunge. 

Also tested

While the eight jackets in this guide are what I believe are the best of the best there are a tonne of other options that either nearly made the cut, or have recently been bumped out of their respective spots. 

When considering the best road options the Assos Equipe RS Targa was certainly one I thought hard about. They’re both a similar price and both work well in really, really bad weather. The clincher for me was the cut in this case; the Assos option is cut so aggressively that the front is a little high for my liking, and so in my view not as good for as many riders. If you ride in a super slammed position and you like the look of the Equipe RS Targa though then don’t hesitate, it’s a fantastic option too. 

Similarly, the Albion All-Road Pertex Shield Rain Jacket ran the Rapha pretty close. The membrane performs much as the Zoa Rain Shell does, but the extra zip seemed like another potential failure point for me. If you want a slightly more forgiving fit, better for layering, then this is a great option in that regard. 

For gravel jackets the only real competitor to the Albion Zoa is the Rapha Explore Gore-Tex jacket. This is a really good option and one of the last remaining Gore-Tex Active membrane jackets on the market. It’s hugely protective, even in the worst weather imaginable, but the price, and the fact the hood is noticeably more claustrophobic than the Zoa swayed me towards the Albion option. I considered including the very excellent Velocio Anorak too, but it doesn’t do anything the Zoa doesn’t also do with the disadvantage of being harder to ventilate. 

Nothing comes close to the Maap Atmos for a packable option. The POC Supreme doesn’t fit nearly as well and is astronomically expensive and I’m yet to find a viable alternative that provides the same protection in moderate downpours. There is the Rab Cinder Phantom, but for a jacket this tiny I didn’t see the value in a hood that has to go under a helmet. 

For commuting there are a few other options that I really rate. If you want a high-vis option then go for the Endura Pro SL Waterproof Shell Jacket, especially if you’re riding in a road position. If you want to be even more visible then there’s always the super-reflective Provis Reflect 360 Plus, but aside from being reflective it’s not a pleasant jacket to ride in; one for short commutes only. 

How to choose the best waterproof cycling jacket for you

The real key thing underneath all of these recommendations is that you need to be honest about your desire to ride in the rain. If you are heading out regularly, by desire or necessity, then investing in the best kit like the Rapha Pro Team or Albion Zoa jackets will absolutely make sense, and make your riding more enjoyable and potentially safer too.

If you’re riding in the rain only occasionally then you can save yourself a lot of money by going for a cheaper option or a lighter emergency shell like the Maap Atmos. Every jacket in this list will do the job, so have a think about what you really need. 

With the absolute best options coming perilously close to the cost of a Wahoo Kickr Core and a year of Zwift there is also something to be said for committing to indoor riding and avoiding the rain altogether. 

What is the best waterproof fabric?

Gore-Tex for decades really has been the big name in waterproofing, but it’s not as binary as Gore-Tex = good, everything else = bad.

Gore-Tex encompasses many different flavours of waterproof fabrics, from Gore-Tex Pro (the absolute highest level of protection, great if you’re going up K2 or Everest, but not nearly breathable enough to handle high output activities like cycling), through to Gore-Tex Infinium (not really waterproof, but can shrug off rain and is incredibly breathable for use in changeable conditions). 

At the heart of every waterproof jacket worth its salt is a waterproof membrane, made from either PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene), or more commonly PU (polyurethane) now that regulations are being brought in to curb the use of fluorocarbons. This has tiny holes in it that are too small to allow liquid water to pass through, but large enough for water vapour (sweat) to pass out to the outside. This is the same whether you’re getting Gore-Tex, Pertex, or any other type of tex (they all seem to have -tex as a suffix by convention). 

You’ll usually see two figures listed for the fabric performance, the waterproof and breathability ratings. The waterproof rating, known as the hydrostatic head, is a measure of how tall a column of water a square of fabric can support before allowing water to be forced through. At a minimum, it must be able to support a 1m column to be called ‘waterproof’, but for reference, some Gore-Tex options can support 35m. The breathability, measured in grams per square meter, shows how much vapour can escape per unit area of fabric over a 24hr period. For cycling, you want to look for 10,000g/m2 or higher, unless you’re only pootling about.

Since Shakedry has been discontinued there’s been a bit of a shakeup at the top of the tree, with brands reaching for alternatives from Gore, Pertex, or in-house. In the last year I’ve certainly seen a lot more of Pertex Shield than I have anything else, and given how well it performs, and how versatile it can be (anything from the feathery Rab Cinder Phantom to the much more sturdy Albion Zoa) this can only be a good thing in my eyes.

Finally, it’s worth noting that while supporting a column of 5m of water may sound like a lot, if you’re wearing a backpack the load on the straps can physically force water through the waterproof membrane of less waterproof fabrics, so be sure to up-rate your options if you do ride with a pack. Also if you’re descending at high velocity, hitting a raindrop at 65km/h can force water through lesser membranes. 

Waterproof fabrics can be a hugely confusing world to navigate, so I’ve written a whole waterproof fabrics explained piece to help demystify things for you if you are confused, all of which stands not just for cycling but also any waterproof tech. 

What is DWR?

DWR stands for Durable Water Repellent. Most waterproof cycling jackets have an outer fabric for durability and aesthetic reasons. This DWR coating is a chemical treatment that renders the outer fabric hydrophobic, causing water to beat up and run off. 

With bad or old DWR treatments the water ceases to bead up, instead saturating the outer fabric and blocking any water vapour from escaping: Essentially it massively reduces the breathability of your jacket, but with wash-in treatments like NikWax, you can easily restore the DWR over and over again. 

Brands are, in general, currently making a switch en masse to DWR treatments that don’t contain PFCs. These don’t always have the same longevity, but its all part of the general push to curtail the use of PFCs, or so-called ‘forever chemicals’.

How should I wash my waterproof cycling jacket?

You need to avoid standard detergents as if your life depends on it as they destroy the waterproof membrane. You need to buy a special waterproof wash from a reputable supplier, and ideally run your washing machine empty on a rinse cycle first to clear out any soap residue. Then it’s just a case of following the instructions on your jacket and the wash-in product.

What is the most breathable waterproof fabric?

Gore-Tex Shakedry held the crown, but that doesn’t mean other options aren’t as viable or even more so for different use cases. I’ve tried my best to explain where each jacket fits best in terms of intensity of use, but if the jackets here don’t float your boat then use them as a guide in terms of breathability to guide you in your purchasing decisions. Of all the general use jackets the Maap Atmos is the one I’d ready for for breathability, but it’s not so protective as some; everything is a balancing act. 

Every jacket here will keep the water out to an acceptable level for its intended use, so it’s probably the breathability figure that you need to be most concerned with. Bear in mind though that more breathable jackets dump your heat faster, so if you find yourself getting cold regularly, or are riding in colder climates you can also read ‘less breathable’ as ‘more warm’. 

It’s also worth bearing in mind that every jacket has a large hole in the top for your head, two small ones for your hands, and a massive void for your lower torso, all of which are great placed for water to get in. I’m yet to test a jacket that, when faced with protracted torrential rain, can keep water out totally. 

Do I need a high-vis waterproof cycling jacket?

For commuting especially, some level of additional visibility is definitely advantageous, be that a bright colour or reflective details. Off-road away from traffic, this will obviously be less of a concern. 

That being said you’ll stay much more visible with a set of the best bike lights. If you want to add more visibility then there are plenty of reflective accessories that you can adorn yourself with whilst still keeping yourself dry

How should my waterproof cycling jacket fit?

For road riding you want something close cut to avoid flapping and the annoying noise and aero drag that comes with it. Remember to leave room for layers though. You’ll want something that’s short at the front with a long tail so it fits well in a more forward-leaning position. This rings true for gravel too, providing you’re also riding in an aggressive position. 

For less speed-oriented riding you can go for something a little more casually cut. This is especially important for expedition-type riding where you may need to layer up underneath substantially if the weather turns on you. 

For commuting, unless you get a thrill from racing the other people on their way to work, you can go for a jacket that fits as a casual jacket would, though the options here and from cycling brands will feature design features to make them more adept at being used on the bike, such as dropped tails and reflective details.

Does my waterproof cycling jacket need a hood?

There seems to be two camps here: Road jackets are almost universally devoid of hoods (none in this guide are hooded), while gravel and MTB jackets opt for them for the most part. It’s true that a hood will keep your head dry in the rain, but if you aren’t riding with the hood up then they do tend to act as a bit of a wind sock behind you if you’re in a flat, racy position. 

Hoods, ideally, should go over the helmet in my view. It looks a little silly at first, but it means you don’t have to stop and take your helmet off if you want to put your hood down. 

Personally I prefer no hood most of the time, and wear a POC Ventral Tempus rain helmet (yes, they exist) to keep the worst off my head. 

Does my waterproof cycling jacket need pockets?

Most waterproof cycling jackets are designed to be a final shell to go over your usual cycling attire. It’s assumed, particularly for road jackets, that your jersey pockets will suffice for storage, and most instead will just have ways for you to access these pockets, normally by a two-way zip. Gravel jackets will feature pockets more readily, the better to pack all of your gravelly accessories into, and the same goes for any jackets designed for MTB.  

Gravel jackets though sometimes assume that most of your portage is taken care of either by a jersey or on-bike luggage like that oh-so-fashionable framebag. Pockets on a waterproof aren’t essential, but that doesn’t mean they don’t help in some cases, particularly for bikepacking where you more regularly stuff random objects about your person. 

Should my waterproof cycling jacket be packable?

It’s helpful if it is, but it isn’t necessary. Lightweight road jackets sometimes come with a stuff sack, but more often than not these are more of a pain to use than the benefit they offer. Simply roll the thing up and slip it into a back pocket instead. If you want packable then the Maap Atmos is the way to go. 

More bulky jackets will rarely offer a dedicated stuff sack, but if you want to pack it away the best bet is to lay it flat, fold the arms in line with the body, and roll the whole thing away into the hood.

Why are some waterproof cycling jackets so expensive?

The answer is a mixture of supply, marketing, and the technology that is included as with almost all items available for purchase. 

Cheap waterproof cycling jackets may not be made to the same standards, be made of as high a quality of materials, or simply won’t be as waterproof or breathable as the top-end models.

Gore-Tex, and other waterproof fabrics, involve sandwiching a waterproof membrane made of expanded plastic a handful of microns thick between an inner and an outer fabric without damaging the membrane. This has then got to be made into a well-fitting garment that lasts, keeps the elements at bay, doesn’t leak at the seams, and looks pleasing too. All this costs a lot to achieve, unfortunately. 

Again it’s good to be honest with your use case; do you need a top-end waterproof or do you want one? The latter is just as viable a reason to purchase one, but if you need to save money and don’t need the absolute best then go for the cheaper option. 

How long should a waterproof cycling jacket last?

This depends on how much you use it; a daily commuter jacket may look a little tired after a couple of hard winters, while a race jacket that’s only used twice a season may last you a decade or more. 

Treat your jacket well, wash it according to the care instructions with the appropriate cleaning products, and reproof it regularly and it’ll last far longer than if you ignore it and leave it damp in a musty garage. 

There are plenty of places now that’ll repair waterproof jackets too, so even if you end up with a hole somewhere following a crash you needn’t have to buy a whole new garment.

I’ve got a fabulous mountaineering jacket that I use all the time for wandering around the high street in the rain, plus the odd bit of skiing and hiking, and it’s ten years old and going strong. There’s nothing to say you can’t get this level of wear if you’re careful. 

How do we test waterproof cycling jackets?

Unfortunately for me it means many many miles in pretty miserable conditions. At every wet opportunity, I’ve been out both on and off road, trying my best to find weaknesses in each of these options to bring you the best possible information. I have taken delivery of well over 50 jackets in the last few years and it is very quickly apparent which ones cut the mustard when you’ve got that level of experience. 

I managed to destroy a front light in under an hour, so wet has the riding been, and I’ve also regularly had to throw on a still-wet pair of shoes from the previous test. On one memorable occasion, I misjudged a puddle and ended up submerging my bottom bracket in a mini flood. 

As well as the ability to repel water, a key factor besides fit and form is how breathable these options are. Naturally, the testing mostly mirrors the intended usage; I wasn’t doing hill reps in the commuter jackets, but anything designed for high-output riding was ridden in such a manner, meaning some pretty bleak evenings doing time trial efforts or some hilly inner city laps in the driving rain. 

Sometimes it even means bringing multiple jackets on the same ride to do some proper back to back testing. If you want to learn more about what I’ve learnt getting wet (or not, in some cases), I’ve outlined the six things I learned testing waterproof jackets so you can learn from my mistakes. 

It doesn’t stop at physically testing either; I’ve also immersed myself in the production, the background chemistry, the regulatory framework and the future of all waterproof fabrics so I can give you the best possible steer on which products are going to be futureproof, sustainable, and safe. 

In short, each jacket here has been given pretty thorough treatment in line with how we test everything else here at Cyclingnews.